James Baldwyn's 'Uptown'

Fifth Avenue, Uptown:  A letter from Harlem

James Baldwin 

first appeared in 'Esquire', July 1960.

There is a Housing Project standing  now where the house in which we grew up once stood, and one of those stunted city trees is snarling where our doorway used to be. This is on the rehabilitated side of the avenue. The other side of the avenue  - for progress takes time - has not been rehabilitated yet and it looks exactly as it looked in the days when we sat with our noses pressed against the window-pane, longing to be allowed to go 'across the street.' The grocery store which gave us credit is still there, and there can be no doubt that it is still giving credit. The people in the Project certainly need it - far more, indeed, than they ever needed the Project. The last time I passed by, the Jewish proprietor was still standing among his shelves, looking sadder and heavier but scarcely any older. Farther down the block stands the shoe-repair store in which our shoes were repaired until reparation became impossible and in which, then, we bought all our 'new' ones. The Negro proprietor is still in the window, head down, working at the leather.

The avenue is elsewhere the renowned and elegant Fifth. The area I am describing, which, in today's gang parlance, would be called 'the turf', is bounded by Lenox Avenue on the west, the Harlem River on the east, 135th Street on the north, and 130th Street on the south. We never lived beyond these boundaries; this is where I grew up. Walking along 145th Street - for example - familiar as it is, and similar, does not have the same impact because I do not know any of the people on the block. But when I turn east on 131st Street and Lenox Avenue,  there is first a soda-pop joint, then a shoeshine 'parlor', then a grocery store, then a dry-cleaners', then the houses. All along the street there are people who watched me grow up along with my brothers and sisters; and, sometimes in my arms, sometimes underfoot, sometimes at my shoulder - or on it - their children, a riot, a forest of children, who include my nieces and nephews.

When we reach the end of this long block, we find ourselves on wide, filthy, hostile Fifth Avenue, facing that Project which hangs over the avenue like a monument to the folly, and the cowardice, of good intentions. All along the block, for anyone who knows it, are immense human gaps, like craters. These gaps are not created merely by those who have moved away, inevitably into some other ghetto; or by those who have risen, almost always into a greater capacity for self-loathing and self-delusion; or yet by those who, by whatever means - World War II, the Korean war, a policeman's gun or billy, a gang war, a brawl, madness, an overdose of heroin, or, simply, unnatural exhaustion - are dead.

I am talking about those who are left, and I am talking principally about the young . What are they doing? Well, some, a minority, are fanatical church-goers, members of the more extreme of the Holy Roller sects. Many, many more are 'moslems' by affiliation or sympathy, that is to say that they are united by nothing more  - and nothing less - than a hatred of the white  world and all its works. They are present, for example, at every Buy Black street-corner meeting - meetings in which the speaker urges his hearers to cease trading with white men and establish a separate economy. Neither the speaker nor his hearers can possibly do this, of course, since Negroes do not own General Motors or RCA or the A&P, nor, indeed, do  they own more than a wholly insufficient fraction of anything else in Harlem (those who do own anything are more interested in their profits than in their felllows). But these meetings nevertheless keep alive in the participators a certain pride of bitterness without which, however futile this bitterness may be, they could scarcely remain alive at all. Many have given up. They stay home and watch the TV screens, living on the earnings of their parents, cousins, brothers, or uncles, and only leave the house to go to the movies or to the nearest bar. 'How're you making it?' one may ask, running into them along the block, or in the bar. 'Oh, I'm TV-ing it'; with the saddest, sweetest, most shamefaced of smiles, and from a great distance. This distance one is compelled to respect; anyone who has traveled so far will not easily be dragged again into the world. There are further retreats, of course, than the TV screen or the bar. There are those who are simply sitting on their stoops, 'stoned', animated for a moment only, and hideously, by the approach of someone from whom they can purchase it, one of the shrewd ones, on the way to prison or just coming out. 

And the others, who have avoided all of these deaths, get up in the morning and go downtown to meet 'the man'. They work in the white man's world all day and come home in the evening to this fetid block. They struggle to instill in their children some private sense of honour or dignity which will help the child to survive. This means, of course, that they must struggle, stolidly, incessantly, to keep this sense alive in themselves, in spite of the insults, the indifference, and the cruelty they are certain to encounter in their working  day. They patiently browbeat the landlord into fixing the heat, the plaster, the plumbing; this demands prodigious patience; nor is patience usually  enough. In trying to make their hovels habitable, they are perpetually throwing good money after bad. Such frustration, so long endured, is driving many strong, admirable men and women whose only crime is colour to the very gates of paranoia.

One remembers them from another time - playing handball in the playground, going to church, wondering if they were going to be promoted at school. One remembers them going off to war - gladly, to escape this block. One remembers their return. Perhaps one remembers their wedding day. And one sees where the girl is now  - vainly looking for salvation from some other embittered, trussed, and struggling boy - and sees the all-but-abandoned children in the streets.

Now I am perfectly aware that there are other slums in which white men are fighting for their lives, and mainly losing. I know that blood is also flowing through those streets and that the human damage there is incalculable. People are continually pointing out to me the wretchedness of white people in order to console me for the wretchedness of blacks. But an itemized account of the American failure does not console me and it should not console anyone else. That hundreds of thousands of white people are living, in effect, no better than the 'niggers' is not a fact to be regarded with complacency. The social and moral bankruptcy suggested by this fact is of the bitterest, most terrifying kind. 

The people, however, who believe that this democratic anguish has some consoling value are always pointing ou that So-and-So, white, and So-and-So, black, rose from the slums into the big time. The existence - the public existence - of, say Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis, Jr. proves to them that America is still the land of opportunity and that inequalities vanish before the determined will. It proves nothing of the sort. The determined will is rare – at the moment, in this country, it is unspeakably rare – and the inequalities suffered by the many are in no way justified by the rise of the few. A few have always risen – in every country, every era, and in the teeth of regimes which can by no stretch of the imagination be thouht of as free. Not all of tese people, it is worth remembering, left the worl better than they found it. The determinded will is rare, but it is not invariably benevolent. Furthermore, the American equation of success with the big time reveals an awful disrespect for human life and human achievement. This equation has placed our cities among the most dangerous in the world and has placed our youth among the most empty and most bewildered. The situation of our youth is not mysterious. Children have never been very good at listening to their elders, but they have never failed to imitate them. They must, they have no other models. That is exactly what our children are doing. They are imitating our immorality, our disrespect for the pain of others.

All other slum dwellers, when the bank account permits it, can move out of the slum and vanish altogether form the eye of persecution. No Negro in this country has ever made that much money and i will be a long time before any Negro does. The Negroes in Harlem, who have ne money, spend what they have on such gimcracks as they are sold. These include ‘wider’ TV screens, more ‘faithful’ hi-fi sets, more ‘powerful’ cars, all of which, of course, are obsolete long before they are paid for. Abnueone who has ever struggeled with poverty knows how extremely expensive it is to be poor; and if one is a member of a captive population, economically spealing, one’s feet have simply been placed on the treadmill forever. One is victmized, economically, in a thousand ways – rent, for example, or car insurance. Go shopping one day in Harlem – for anything – and compare Harlem prices and quality with those downtown.

The people who have managed to get off this block have only got as far as a more respectable ghetto. This respectable ghetto does not even have the advantages of the disreputable one – friends, neighbours, a familiar church, and friendly tradesman; and it is not, moreover, in the nature of any ghetto to remain respectable long. Every Sunday, people who have left the block take the lonely ride back, dragging their increasingly discontented children with them. They spend the day talking, not always with words, about the trouble they’ve seen and the trouble – one must watch their eyes as they watch their children – they are only too likely to see. For children do not like ghettos. It takes them nearly no time do discover exactly why they are there.

The Projects in Harlem are hated. They are hated almost as much as policemen, and this is saying a greta deal. And they are hated for the same reason: both reveal, unbearably, the real attitude of the white world, no matter how many liberal speeches are made, no matter how many lofty editorials are written, no matter how many civil-rights commissions are set up.

The Projects are hideous, of course, there being a law, apparently respected throughout the world, that popular housing shall be as cheerless as a prison. They are lumped all over Harlem, colourless, bleak, high and revolting. The wide windows look out on Harlem’s invincible and indescribable squalor: Park Avenue rail-road tracks, around which, about forty years ago, the present dark community began; the unrehabilitated houses, bowed down, it would seem, under the great weight of frustration and bitterness they contain; the dark, the ominous schoolhouses from which the child may emerge maimed, blinded, hooked, or enraged for life; and the churches, churches, block upon block of churches, niched in the walls like cannon in the walls of of a fortress. Even if the administration of the Projects were not so insanely humiliating (for example: one must report raises in salary to the management, which will then eat up the profit by raising one’s rent; themanagement has the right to know who is staying in your apartment; the management can ask you to leave, at their discretion), the Projects would still be hated because they are an insult to the meanest intelligence.

Harlem has got its first private project, Riverton – which is now, naturally, a slum – about twelve years ago because at that time Negroes were not allowed to live in Stuyvesant Town. Harlem watched Riverton go up, therefore, in the most violent bitterness of spirit, and hated it at about the time people began moving out of their condemned houses to make room for this additional proof of how thoroughly the white world despised them. And they had scarcely moved in, naturally, before they began smashing windows, defacing walls, urinating in the elevators, and fornicating in the playgrounds. Liberals, both white and black were appalled at the spectacle. I was appalled by the liberal innocence – or cynicism, which comes out in practice as much the same thing. Other people were delighted to be able to point to proof positive that nothing could be done to better the lot of the coloured people. They were, and are, right in one respect: that nothing can be done as long as they are treated like coloured people. The people in Harlem know they are living there because white people do not think they are good enough to live anywhere else. Whatever money is now being earmarked to improve this, or any other ghetto, might as well be burnt. A ghetto can be improved in one way only: out of existence.

Similarly, the only way to police a ghetto is to be oppressive. None of the Police Commissioner’s men, even with the best will in the world, have any way of understanding the lives led by the people they swagger about in twos and threes controlling. Their very presence is an insult, and it would be, even if they spent their entire day feeding gumdrops to children. They represent the force of the white world, and that world’s real intentions are, simply, for that world’s criminal profit and ease, to keep the black man corraled up here, in his place. The badge, the gun in the holster, and the swinging club make vivid what will happen should his rebellion become overt. Rare, indeed, is the Harlem citizen, from the most circumspect church member to the most shiftless adolescent, who does not have a long tale to tell of police incompetence, injustice, or brutality. I myself have witnessed and endured it more than once. The businessmen and racketeers also have a story. And so do the prostitutes. (And this is not, perhaps, the place to discuss Harlem’s very complex attitude toward black policemen, nor the reasons, according to Harlem, that they are nearly all downtown.)

It is hard, on the other hand, to blame the policeman, blank, good-natured, thoughtless, and insuperably innocent, for being such a perfec representative of the people he serves. He, too, believes in good intentions and is astounded and offended when they are not taken for the deed. He has never, himself, done anything for which to be hated – which of us has? – and yet he is facing, daily and nightly, people who would gladly see him dead, and he knows it. There is no way for him not to know it: there are few things under heaven more unnerving than the silent, accumulating contempt and hatred of a people. He moves through Harlem, therefore, like an accupying soldier in a bitterly hostile country; which is precisely what, and where he is, and is the reason he walks in twos and threes. And he is not the only one who knows why he is always in company: people who are watching him know why, too. Any street meeting, sacred or secular, which he and his colleagues uneasily cover has as its explicit or implicit burden the cruelty and injustice of the white domination. And these days, of course, in terms increasingly vivid and jubilant, it speaks of the end of that domination. The white policeman standing on a Harlem street corner finds himself at the very centre of the revolution now occurring in the world. He is not prepared for it – naturally, nobody is – and, what is possibly much more to the point, he is exposed, as few white people are, to the anguish of the black people around him. Even if he is gifted with the merest mustard grain of imagination, something must seep in. He cannot avoid observing that some of the children, in spite of their colour, remind him of children he has known and loved, perhaps even of his own children. He knows that he certainly does not want his children living this way. He can retreat from his uneasiness in only one direction: into a callousness which very shortly becomes second nature. He becomes more callous , the population becomes more hostile, the situation grows more tense, and the police force is increased. One day, to everyone’s astonishment, someone drops a match in the powder keg and everything blows up. Before the dust has settled or the blood congealed, editorials, speeches, and civil-rights commissions are loud in the land, demanding to know what happened. What happened is that Negroes want to be treated like men.

Negroes want to be treated like men: a perfectly straightforward statement, containing only seven words. People who have mastered Kant, Hegel, Shakespeare, Marx, Freud, and the Bible find this statement utterly impenetrable. The idea seems to threaten profound, barely conscious assumptions. A kind of panic paralyzes their features, as though they found themselves trapped on the edge of a steep place. I once tried to describe to a very well-known American intellectual the conditions among Negroes in the South. My recital disturbed him and made him indignant; and he asked me in perfect innocence, ‘Why don’t all the Negroes in the South move North?’ I tried to explain what has happened, unfailingly, whenever a signficant body of Negroes move North. They do not escape Jim Crow: they merely encounter another, not-less-deadly variety. They do not move to Chicago, they move to South Side; they do not move to New York, they move to Harlem. The pressure within the ghetto causes the ghetto walls to expand, and this expansion is always violent. White people hold the line as long as they can, and in as many ways as they can, from verbal intimidation to physical violence. But inevitably the border which has divided the ghetto from the resto of the worl falls into the hands of the ghetto. The white pople fall back bitterly before the black horde; the landords make a tidy profit by raising the rent, chopping up the rooms, an all but dipensing with the upkeep; andwhat has once been a neighbourhood turns into a ‘turf’. This is precisely what happened when the Puerto Ricans arrived in their thousands – and the bitterness thus caused is, as I write, being fought out all up and down those streets.  

Northerners indulge in an extremely dangerous luxury. They seem to feel that because they fought on the right side during the Civil War, and won, they have earned the right merely to deplore what is going on in the South, without taking any responsability for it; and that they can ignore what is happening in Northern cities because what is happening in Little Rock or Birmingham is worse. Well, in the first place, it is not possible for anyone who has not endured both to know which is ‘worse’. I know Negroes who prefer the South and white Southerners because ‘At least there, you haven’t got to play any guessing games!’ The guessing games referred to have driven more than one Negro into the narcotics ward, the madhouse, or the river. I know another Negro, a man very dear to me, who says, with conviction and with truth, ‘The spirit of the South is the spirit of America.’ He was born in the North and did his military in the South. He did not, as far as I can gather, find the South ‘worse’; he found it, if anything, all too familiar. In the second place, though, even if Birmingham is worse, no doubt Johannesburg, South Afric, beats it by several miles, and Buchenwald was one of the worst things that ever happened in the entire history of the world. The world has never lacked for horrifying examples; but I do not believe that these examples are meant to be used as justification for our own crimes. This perpetual justification empties the heart of all human feeling. The emptier our hearts become, the greater will be our crimes. Thirdly, the South is not merely an embarrassingly backward region, but a part of this country, and what happens there concerns every one of us.

As far as the colour problem is concerned, there is but one great difference between the Southern white and the Northerner: the Southerner remembers, historically and in his own psyche, a kind of Eden in which he loved black people and they loved him. Historically, the flaming sword laid across this Eden is the Civil War. Personally, it is the Southerner’s sexual coming of age, when, without any warning, unbreakable taboos are set up between himself and his past. Everything, thereafter, is permitted him except the love he remembers and has never ceased to need. The resulting, indescribable torment affects every Southern mind and is the basis of the Southern hysteria.

None of this is true for the Northerner. Negroes represent nothing to him personally, except, perhaps, the dangers of carnality. He never sees Negroes. Southerners see them all the time. Northerners never think about them whereas Southerners are never really thinking of anything else. Negroes are, therefore, ignored in the North and are under surveillance in the South, and suffer hideously in both places. Neither the Southerner nor the Northerner is able to look on the Negro simply as a man. It seems to be indispensable to the national self-esteem that the Negro be considered either as a kind of ward (in which case we are told how many Negroes, comparatively, bought Cadillacs last year and how few, comparatively, were lynched), or as a victim (in which case we are promised that he will never vote in our assemblies or go to school with our kids). They are two sides of the same coin and the South will not change – cannot change until it reexamines itself and discovers what it really means by freedom. In the meantime, generations keep being born, bitterness is increased by incompetence, pride, and folly, and the world shrinks around us.

It is a terrible, and inexorable, law that one cannot deny the humanity of another without diminishing one’s own: in the face of one’s victim, one sees oneself. Walk through the streets of Harlem and see what we, this nation, have become.

James Baldwin

The Crystals 

UPTOWN

He gets up each morning and he goes Downtown
where everyone's his boss and he's lost in an angry land, he's a little man

But then, he comes Uptown each evening to my tenement
Uptown where folks don't have to pay much rent
and when he's there with me, he can see that he's everything
then he's tall, he don't crawl, he's a king

Downtown, he's just one of a million guys
he don't get no breaks and he takes all they got to give
'cause he's got to live

But then, he comes Uptown where he can hold his head up high
Uptown, he knows that I'll be standing by
and when I take his hand, there's no man who could put him down
the world is sweet, it's at his feet when he's Uptown.

Whoa-oa-oa-oa-oa
yeah yeah yeah ...

written by Barry Mann & Cynthia Weil
performed by The Crystals 1962

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od0UQCzr784

James Baldwin & Marlon Brando in Washington, D.C. in 1963.

James Baldwyn & Bob Dylan.

Park Avenue Railroad Tracks & Tunnels - East Harlem

The Park Avenue Tunnel connects 4 tracks of the Metro-North Railroad from Grand Central Terminal and 4nd Street to 97th Street in the New York City borough of Manhattan. The tunnel portal rises to a full viaduct by 99th Street. Wikipedia.

Harlem 1963.

James Baldwin on the cover of Time magazine - 17 May 1963.